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條干測試，唯一的紡織質量控制核心
發布時間：2014-09-24
條干測試，唯一的紡織質量控制核心
At the heart of textile quality control: why evenness testing is the only option
從紡廠到用戶，USTER? TESTER 5 幫您實現客戶滿意度及紡廠盈利的雙贏
From spinner to consumer, the USTER? TESTER 5 points the way to customer satisfaction and mill profitability...
當一個紡織專家選購一件時尚T恤時，質量不僅同顏色及款式一樣重要，有時甚至更為重要。這也是為什么從紡廠到最終進入時尚成衣店的這個漫長的旅程中需要有一個好的開端，作為T恤的基本組成-- 紗線，則需要滿足各個環節的質量需求。此時，唯一所需的信息就是關于紗線參數的精確測試值，這由 USTER? TESTER 5 進行測量提供，它是促成紡織品質量及紡廠利潤雙贏的必不可少的工具。
When a textile expert goes shopping for a fashionable new T-shirt, quality will be just as important as color and style, and maybe even more so. That's why the long journey from spinning mill to fashion store needs a good start, with the basic ingredients in that T-shirt - the yarns - meeting every quality demand along the way. The only signpost required is accurate measuring of key yarn properties using USTER? TESTER 5, the indispensable guide to textile quality and mill profitability.
事實上，讓一名專業的紡織行家在成衣商店識別出織物 "好"與"差"的質量差別實在是大費周章。任何一名非專業人士，只要留心觀察都會看出一些織物瑕疵。例如由于纖維糾纏造成的結節或棉結，以及由于紗線上過多的粗節、細節造成的織物表面不勻整等。
In fact, it doesn't take a textile technologist to identify some of the obvious differences between 'good' and 'bad' quality in the store. A careful look will be enough for anyone to spot some telltale signs: small knots of entangled fiber, or neps, for example, or an uneven look to the knitted fabric caused by too many thick or thin parts in the yarn.
如今，每一個消費者只需時常將織物產品拿在手里掂量掂量，就能成為一名品控人員。"最終，通過觸摸織物就能發現很多質量問題"，烏斯特技術公司紗線測試產品經理Gabriela Peters說道： "一件優質的織物必須摸上去很舒服，緊而不僵，柔而不弱。大多數織物瑕疵都能追溯到紗線上來，這也是為什么我們應該關注紗線紗疵或者說應該集中精力將諸如棉結、不勻等問題根除，從而將織物的瑕疵從根源上根除。"
Today, every consumer can be a quality controller, often by simply picking up and holding a product. "Ultimately, touching the fabric can reveal a lot about quality," says Gabriela Peters, Product Manager Yarn Testing at Uster Technologies AG. "A good quality fabric should feel right to the touch - tight, but not too stiff, soft but not weak. The majority of defects can be traced back to the yarn, so that's where we should focus, to eradicate problems such as neps and uneven-looking fabric."
優質織物應有的外觀及觸感
The 'right' look and feel
全球頂級服裝品牌設計師在設計過程中，不僅僅關注款式、顏色以及時尚度，他們還對服裝應有的外觀及穿著者的觸感有著非常清醒的認識。要滿足所有這些條件，所用紗線必須被精準地定義，而要想穩定一致地生產這種紗線并準確滿足所有質量需求，對于紡廠來說確實是一項挑戰。
Designers working for the top global apparel brands focus on styling, color and fashion - but they also have a clear concept of how they want a garment to look and feel to the wearer. To meet all these criteria, the yarn to be used must be precisely specified, and it's the spinner's challenge to produce it, consistently, to exactly the required quality standards.
紡廠企業同其他行業的企業其實沒什么分別，同樣地，他們既要取悅消費者又要將利潤最大化。利潤的創造需要可靠有效的紗線測試，這也是唯一能保證紡廠取得質量及利潤平衡、雙贏結果的辦法。
Spinners are no different to other entrepreneurial businesses. They aim to delight their customers, while operating to the maximum of economy and profitability themselves. And that profit impetus today calls for effective and reliable yarn testing disciplines, as the only sure way to achieve the essential balance between quality and productivity in the mill.
[--page--]對于任何一種需要關注質量的織物應用，測試紗線的屬性都絕對必要：不勻率、粗節、細節、棉結、毛羽以及紗支都極為關鍵。所有這些屬性都在實驗室進行，實現這些僅需一臺條干測試儀！而對于哪種條干測試儀設定了全球標準，這一點眾所周知：USTER? TESTER 5，現已經升級到了第五代最新版本，是烏斯特60多年經驗和技術的沉淀以及在該領域持續發展的象征，它的地位為整個行業所認同！
For any fabric application where quality matters, it is an absolute necessity to measure certain yarn properties: unevenness, thick and thin places, neps, hairiness and yarn count are the most critical. Testing for all these is done in the laboratory, using a single instrument, known as an evenness tester. And there is no argument about which evenness tester is acknowledged as setting the global standard: the USTER? TESTER 5, now in its fifth generation, is the embodiment of more than 60 years of experience, know-how and continuous development in this field by Uster Technologies, and its status is recognized throughout the industry.
一直以來必不可少的測試
Essential testing, then and now...
烏斯特技術公司應瑞士烏斯特當地一家紡廠的需求，于1948年生產了第一臺條干測試儀。用以量化條干的質量參數由此建立，這就是如今聞名遐邇的烏斯特值，即如今廣為人知的條干變異系數（CVm）。該系數以百分比數值表現，顯示了紗線條干的變異程度。數值越大，變異程度越高。如下例所示，2種紗線的烏斯特CVm值存在2.6%的細小差異，但這種差異就會造成織物外觀的明顯差別。有著較低數值的紗線(CVm = 12.6%， 圖 1)外觀較為勻整，而CVm數值為15.2%的紗線（圖2）則在針織物表面形成了云斑效果。一如60多年前，想要同時達成客戶滿意度及紡廠利潤的雙重挑戰現在同樣存在。正如此例所述，擁有準確測試條干變異能力的紡廠占據了主要優勢。
Uster Technologies produced its first evenness tester in 1948, in response to a request from local spinners. The quality parameter established then, and used ever since to quantify evenness, is the well-known USTER value, also known today as coefficient of mass (CVm). Expressed as a percentage, this value shows the degree of variation in the unevenness of a yarn. The higher the value, the greater the variation. In the examples seen here, where two yarns differ by as little as 2.6% in USTER values, this evenness variation results in a marked difference in fabric appearance. The yarn with the lower value (CVm = 12.6%, Fig. 1) shows an even appearance, while the yarn with the higher CVm value of 15.2% (Fig. 2) displays a cloudy effect in knitted fabric. Even 60 years ago, the business challenges of customer satisfaction and profitability were the same as today, so the ability to measure unevenness properly has always been a major advantage for spinners, as these examples illustrate.
圖一
圖二
[--page--]在滿足這些基本需求以后，USTER? TESTER 5 已成為紡織實驗室的核心儀器，或者說，每家紡廠的質量控制核心！Gabriela Peters說道："USTER? TESTER 5 的測試結果被視為紡廠競爭力的必需品，甚至是紡廠賴以生存的基本條件。例如，波譜圖上能精確顯示出不勻并直接反應造成瑕疵的機器部件。這種快速反應能幫助紡廠節省很多浪費，浪費的原料就是白白流失的利潤。同樣地，劣質紗線導致的客戶投訴以及降價都將造成利潤流失。"
By meeting these fundamental needs, USTER? TESTER 5 has become the core instrument in the textile lab - right at the heart of quality control for every mill. Says Gabriela Peters: "Results from USTER? TESTER 5 are now regarded as essential for the competitiveness - and even survival - of a spinning plant. For example, the USTER value shown up in spectrogram form can pinpoint irregularities and directly identify a defective machine part responsible for the quality problem. This kind of quick fix will save the mill a lot of wasted production - and wasted raw material amounts to lost profit. The same applies to poor quality yarn which causes customer complaints and price reductions."
能夠向用戶提交USTER? TESTER 5 測試報告的紡廠必定會取悅用戶，因為客戶認可這是經由一臺精確度和可靠性100%的儀器出具的報告。交易雙方都能信賴USTER? TESTER 5 出具的報告，并據此來復核紗線質量參數及質量需求之間的差距。
But spinners who can deliver yarn with a quality report from the USTER? TESTER 5 can be sure their customers will be happy - in the knowledge that samples were tested on an instrument whose accuracy and reliability is trusted 100%. Both parties can also rely on USTER? TESTER 5 reports to double-check that the yarn's quality parameters meets the required specification.
雙方的信任是客戶滿意度的首要且至關重要的環節。而這一信任也將延續至最終的成品--時尚商店所售的T恤。基于這種信任生產的產品，有著應有的外觀及觸感去吸引對質量極為關注的購買者。
That mutual confidence creates the vital first link in the chain of customer satisfaction. A chain that extends to the final product, the T-shirt on the fashion shelves which has the necessary look and feel to attract the quality-conscious purchaser...
關于烏斯特技術股份有限公司
About Uster Technologies Ltd.
烏斯特集團是紡織業質量控制和認證領域領先的高科技儀器制造商，提供一系列的監測儀器、系統和服務，用于對紡織品生產的每一道工序進行質量優化和認證，從紡織纖維原材料（如棉花、羊毛或合成纖維長絲）到最終的織物成品。烏斯特集團提供的質量基準已經成為國際市場上不同質量級別紡織品進行貿易的基礎。集團的目標是向紡織行業推廣有關質量、生產率和成本的專業知識。
The Uster Group is the leading high-technology instrument manufacturer of products for quality measurement and certification for the textile industry. The Group provides testing and monitoring instruments, systems and services that allow optimization of quality through each individual stage of textile production. This includes raw textile fibers, such as cotton or wool, all staple fiber and filament yarns, as well as downstream services to the final finished fabric. The Uster Group provides benchmarks that are a basis for the trading of textile products at assured levels of quality across global markets. The Group's aim is to forward know-how on quality, productivity and cost to the textile industry.
集團總部設在瑞士烏斯特，通過市場機構在全球各地開展業務，并設有數個技術中心。它在主要的紡織市場設有銷售和服務子公司，并在烏斯特（瑞士）、諾克斯維爾（美國）和蘇州（中國）設有技術中心。
The Group is headquartered in Uster, Switzerland and operates through a worldwide Market Organization complemented by Technology Centers. It has sales and service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville (USA) and Suzhou (China).